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Behind the walls: Suburb yields a secret

03 Mar, 2010 08:02 AM
Since Jack's Magazine was built as a storage venue for gunpowder in the 1870s, fewer than 1000 people have been inside its bluestone walls. The Mail was last week taken on an exclusive tour.

THOUSANDS of people pass by Jack's Magazine every day, but most of them don't know it's there - which is exactly what architect William Wordell had in mind when he designed the largest powder magazine ever built in Victoria.

Nestled in a valley at the base of Gordon Street, Jack's Magazine (formerly known as the Footscray or Saltwater Magazine) is a rectangular site surrounded by a three-metre-high bluestone wall.

Inside are two identical, long buildings (known as magazines) that are surrounded and separated by 10-metre-high 'blast mounds'.

As Kevin Snow puts it: "Jack's Magazine was built in the same era as Pentridge Prison, but one was built to keep people out and one was built to keep people in."

Mr Snow has a long history with the area. He was employed by the company that bought the defence land (including Jack's) in the mid-1990s and is now Delfin's operations manager for neighbouring Edgewater estate. He was around when Delfin put out two expressions of interest for developing the 5.5-hectare magazine site for commercial use. "It's fair to say we weren't flooded with interest."

But they were never short of ideas from those lucky enough to have a look inside.

Suggestions put forward include: markets, TAFE/school campus, a native nursery, gallery/arts performance space, and restaurant.

Now it will be up to Parks Victoria. Delfin has organised to build a paved access road to the site that connects to the Pipemakers Park.

Work is expected to begin this month, with the site handed over by mid-year.

When the Mail was granted access last week, many of the buildings looked as though they weren't a day old, let alone 132 years old. The two magazines are built on bluestone foundations with bluestone buttress walls, the rock having been quarried from the site and what is now Highpoint shopping centre.

There are "baffle" windows, which deflect direct explosion, and lightning rods that direct any strike into the ground.

"The weakest part of the building is the roof, so if there was an explosion it would go straight up," Mr Snow says. But there never was an explosion. Until World War II, the magazine was used without catastrophe. Pre-war, a small group of people worked on the site loading powder from barges that travelled along the Maribyrnong River and up a canal that is now blocked. A tram track system throughout the complex was used to transport goods.

Mr Snow is amazed at how well the site is designed. The designers thought of everything, except electricity, water and sewerage - the first two have since been connected to the title land and a sewerage system is in place. "The workmanship is phenomenal," he says. "It's incredible that in the 1870s they did all this work without the equipment we have now."

If you're wondering about the name, "Jack's Magazine" wasn't coined until the late-20s. Locals started to refer to the site as Jack's after Wally Jack, who took over as magazine keeper after World War I. "He ruled with an iron fist. That's how it got named after him: everybody thought he owned the place."

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Step inside: Kevin Snow at the entrance to one of two tunnels that lead through the mounds to the magazines.Pictures: Michael Copp
Step inside: Kevin Snow at the entrance to one of two tunnels that lead through the mounds to the magazines.Pictures: Michael Copp
Uncomfortable relic: This dentist chair is one of a few items that remain in the buildings on site.
Uncomfortable relic: This dentist chair is one of a few items that remain in the buildings on site.
Sound of silence: The temperature inside the magazines never changes and the thick walls block out any sounds.
Sound of silence: The temperature inside the magazines never changes and the thick walls block out any sounds.
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